Are wheel spacers safe? A simple guide to hubcentric spacers, bolts and fitment

Wheel spacers sit between your car’s hub (the central part the wheel bolts onto) and the alloy wheel. Fitted properly, they widen the track, fill the arches and improve the stance. The wrong size, the wrong bolts, or a wheel spacer that does not locate on the hub properly, can lead to vibration or rubbing.

This guide is for road and track cars. It covers what hubcentric means, why the bolts matter, and how to choose a vehicle-specific kit with the bolts in the box. If you already know your car's make,model and year, use the fitment checker above or call us on 01292 286 573 .

Are wheel spacers safe?

Yes - when you buy the right kit for the car, fitted correctly, and torqued properly.

Safety depends on the correct kit and the fit, not on the idea of a spacer itself. Get those right and spacers are an effective upgrade on road and track cars. Get them wrong and you can end up with vibration, rubbing, or a failed inspection - see MOT, arches and insurance section below.

In practice that means:

The spacer is hubcentric - it locates on the vehicle hubs centre bore, and the wheel locates on the spacer.
You use the right length and seat of bolt (or the right bolt-on / studded design for your car).
Bolts are torqued to the setting in your vehicles handbook, then checked again after a short run-in (we recommend buyers to re-check after roughly 50 to 100 miles - follow your handbook if it says otherwise).
The tyre does not stick out past the arch when viewed from above.
You tell your insurer you have fitted spacers. (What that means for your policy is between you and them - we cannot speak for every insurer.)

If a listing does not clearly state centre bore, PCD, and which bolts you need, ask before you buy - or ring us and we will sort the fitment.

Hubcentric vs a basic “universal” shim

Hubcentric spacers are the specific type we sell for most UK cars. Extended bolts go through the wheel and the spacer and into the hub. The spacer centres on the hub so the bolts mainly clamp the wheel up.

Universal shims that leave the wheel to be centred by the bolts alone are more likely to vibrate. For road and track use we stick to hubcentric, vehicle-specific kits.

Marketplace kits that are vague on sizing, leave you to guess the bolts, or do not match your hub bore are where people get into bother. A proper kit names the car (or the hub sizes) and includes the matching bolts.

What you get from us

Our customers usually buy a complete hubcentric kit: the spacers plus the matching bolts for that car. We don't send you hunting for hardware on another page.

We are a UK shop (Precision Scotland Ltd, Mauchline, Ayrshire). We sell fitment-led kits for specific cars - not a generic “one size” pitch.

Our kit pages list the materials in full. In short: spacers in T6061 aluminium, bolts in grade 10.9 carbon steel - see the kit page for your car for thread, seat and exact hardware.

BMW example (because the hub changed and people often order the wrong one):

Older BMWs (many E and F cars): usually 5×120 with a 72.6 mm centre bore.
Newer G-chassis cars (and some late F cars): usually 5×112 with a 66.6 mm centre bore.

Order the wrong hub and it will not fit. Use the fitment checker, start from our BMW wheel spacers page, or call 01292 286 573.

Torque to the handbook figure, then re-check after your first short drive.

Types of spacer

Hubcentric (most common)
Extended bolts through wheel and spacer into the hub. What most VW, Audi, BMW, SEAT and Škoda owners need. VW Volkswagen Wheel Spacers

Bolt-on
Short bolts hold the spacer to the hub; you would then use your original wheel bolts to attach your alloy wheel to the spacer.

For hubs that use studs and nuts like most Ford models. The spacer needs enough thickness to clear the existing studs and your new bolt-on spacer has its own studs for your alloy wheel to go over and your original wheel nuts to attach to. Ford Wheel Spacers

Not sure? Send make, model, year, and whether the wheels are original or aftermarket. We will tell you the hub, the thickness, and the bolt. (We only recommend kits we actually stock if we do not have your platform, we will say so.)

How thick should I go?

Bigger is not always better. Too thick and the tyre rubs on the arch or liner, especially on a lowered car or at full lock.

A practical approach:

Measure the tightest gap from tyre to arch at ride height.
Leave a little spare for bumps and body roll, do not use every last millimetre of static gap.
Common road sizes are 12mm, 15mm, 20mm, or a 15mm & 20mm staggered set.

We would rather you call than guess. 01292 286 573.

MOT, arches and insurance

Trouble usually comes from the result of centre bore mismatch, wrong wheel bolts used or universal shims fitted instead of our specific hubcentric fit wheel spacers causing - loose wheels, steering wheel vibration, rubbing, play, or the tyre sticking out beyond the bodywork.

Keep it simple:

Hubcentric kit, correct bolts, correct torque.
Tyres inside the arches when viewed from above.
Tell your insurer. Ask them directly if you need to know how it affects your cover - we will not guess that for you.

For fitment on your exact car, ask us.

Fitting - short version

Confirm hub, PCD, centre bore and thickness (fitment checker or a call).
Fit one corner at a time on a level surface with the car safely supported.
Clean the hub face; seat the spacer fully on the centre bore.
Use the bolts that came with the kit (right length and seat).
Torque to the handbook figure in a star pattern.
Drive carefully, then re-check the torque after a short run-in.
Do not stack spacers. Do not reuse damaged bolts.

Use a qualified fitter if you are not confident. Fitment videos are in the info pages on the site.

Where to go next on our site

Wheel spacers - filter by vehicle
BMW wheel spacers - which hub your BMW uses
Best sellers with bolts in the box - BMW 3 Series staggered 15 mm & 20 mm hubcentric kit (2018–2025)

Call 01292 286 573 or email info@precision-autoparts.co.uk if you want us to pick the kit with you.